Tilapia producer speaks out on slave labor in seafood

There is no excuse for the slavery problems that have plagued the commercial seafood industry in Thailand, according to the principal of one of the largest global tilapia production companies, Miramar, Fla.-based Regal Springs.

“Slavery in Asia does not need to be the case,” Magdalena Walhoff told SeafoodSource in an exclusive interview. “I would like to not just talk about this overused statement of ‘sustainability,’ but more about how are we raising food and treating people.”

As global consumers’ spending on food relative to income continues to decline, the seafood industry has felt the pricing pressure, Walhoff said. “This pressure on producers has led to shortcuts and unethical savings. I do not think that more regulations and legislation are the answer. We each have choices we make in our daily production or purchasing that will determine where this industry goes. Even the buyers have to take responsibility about where they are buying things from.”

Many seafood producers give “lip service” to sustainability, but instead should be focusing on how their employees are treated and how fish is farmed. “It’s about the future of humanity and, if we turn a blind eye to slavery and other moral failures, we have no honor in what we do.”

Since tilapia is often farmed in areas where the economy is uncertain, producers have a responsibility to treat employees fairly, Walhoff said. “When we come in and give them a stable and fair income and create a fair and just place to work, it gives them tremendous stability, which grows their industry and communities,” Walhoff said.

Tilapia farmers must also improve their farming practices in order to develop a high-quality, clean product. “The quality varies so widely and wildly. That has to stop if we are to continue our growth,” Walhoff said. For example, Regal Springs ensures that it uses clean water and high quality feed, and takes other sustainability measures. “Yes, it affects the price, so we will never be able to compete with what is coming out of China. But you get a good product that has been raised well and truly sustainably.”

And global demand for tilapia does not appear to be waning. Regal Springs has increased its tilapia distribution in Mexico, particularly in Costco and Walmart stores. “We have started growing local sales in Mexico, not just in the fresh, whole market, but in fresh and frozen fillets,” Walhoff said. “We are also exporting fresh and frozen tilapia to the U.S. from our plant in Mexico.”

Regal Springs’ business is also growing in Australia, where tilapia is seen as a “pest,” according to Walhoff. “Tilapia is being sold as ‘Kariba Bream’ there, since it doesn’t have a great reputation. They are very happy with our quality and … [sales are] growing in both retail and foodservice.”

European seafood processors have also increased tilapia purchasing, because of the versatility of the fish. Still, the challenge in European countries is that many buyers “go to pangasius for the super cheap stuff,” Walhoff said.

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