Chef Tony Adams
Cavallo Point, The Lodge at Golden Gate
Sausalito, California, U.S.A.
Tony Adams, head chef of Cavallo Point’s Cooking School, is no stranger to the world of meat fanatics. He is himself a renowned expert in charcuterie and butchery, and he once owned the very meat-centric Big Wheel Provisions. When facing an audience of meat fans, he tackles the seafood challenge head-on by introducing notes commonly associated with meat and creating dishes that have a smoky flavor profile.
When Adams cures salmon, he incorporates flavors more often associated with meat, such as the spice blend he uses for his pastramia, heavy with pepper and coriander. He often uses it to make a seafood rendition of a Rueben sandwich.
“It makes me feel like I’m eating some really succulent meat and I love to encourage meat-lovers to try it for a seafood alternative,” he said.
Adams also leans toward TwoXSea’s smoked black cod, which he likens to “really good” bacon. He tosses it through pasta with succulent seasonal veggies like peas, asparagus and fava beans for a simple yet tasty meal that he’s found meat-lovers keep coming back for.
Ricotta cavatelli with smoked black cod and springtime vegetables
Serves 4
- Olive oil, as needed
- 3 cloves garlic (sliced thinly or shaved)
- 10 oz. Smoked Black Cod (also known as Smoked Sablefish), skin and pin bones removed, flaked 1 lb Ricotta Cavatelli Pasta (Can be store bought frozen or fresh made) into large flakes
- 2 handfuls of baby arugula or other greens good for wilting
- 1 cup Blanched fava beans, English peas, chopped asparagus tips or other springtime veg
- 16 oz Crème Fraiche (Substitute sour cream if not available)
- 8-12 oz. fish stock, shrimp stock, chicken stock, or water
- ¼ cup Parmesan, grated (plus more for garnish if desired)
- 1 small bunch Chives, sliced thinly
- Edible flowers as desired for garnish
Bring a half gallon of heavily salted water to a boil.
While the water is heating, heat a large non-stick saute pan with enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan with an even thin layer, no more than 3 tablespoons. Add the shaved garlic into the cold oil, and place the pan over medium high heat to start infusing its flavor. When the garlic starts to brown, add in 60% of the flaked smoked fish, reserving the remaining fish for finishing the dish. Swirl the pan to stir, but avoid breaking up the fish with any utensils beyond the initial flaking if possible.
Add the pasta into the boiling water, and cook, stirring every 30 seconds or so to keep from sticking. Cook according to package directions, or if made fresh, for about 4 minutes, making sure the pot returns to a full rolling boil to ensure the pasta is cooked through. Drain the pasta, shaking to remove the water well.
Add the arugula to the saute pan and start wilting. Add the drained pasta to the saute pan with the other vegetables and toss to heat through. Add the crème fraiche, a small amount of the stock or water, and parmesan. Turn heat to high to start reducing to a sauce consistency. Adjust seasoning.
Finish with a bunch of chives, and serve in a bowl, garnished with additional chives, parmesan, edible flowers, and the reserved smoked cod as desired.