American diners didn’t used to have it so good when it came to seafood starters. A typical fine-dining menu might feature a prawn cocktail, perhaps a smoked salmon crudité, or maybe oysters.
But as American chefs have embraced a more global cuisine, the result has been a significant broadening of the repertoire of seafood small plates on offer in U.S. restaurants. Now American chefs are adding their own personal signatures to their menus, using local and imported sea…