As the Japanese population ages, and with more women entering the workforce, pre-made “osechi,” stacking boxes of foods eaten on the first three days of the New Year, have become more common. While all items were formerly made at home, modern women may make only a few side dishes to compliment a purchased set.
Such sets were previously available only on the basement floor of department stores, where many gourmet items are offered, or from expensive traditional restaurants, but in recent years, cheaper sets can be had at convenience stores or from Internet shopping portals such as Rakuten. Prices range from around JPY 10,000 to JPY 30,000 (USD 85.55 – 256.65, EUR 81.24 – 243.69) for a set of three stacking boxes, depending on the ingredients. The inclusion of large prawns tend to increase the price.
National convenience store chains are taking widely different approaches in their “osechi” offerings, some stressing wide range, and others reasonable price.
Tokyo-based Family Mart is offering a single set featuring salmon roe from Hokkaido, yellowtail teriyaki, kamaboko and datemaki, grilled seabream, abalone, lox, prawns, octopus, kazunoko (herring eggs) and snow crab claws. Ratatouille and roast beef add a Western touch.
Kamaboko’s red and white colors represent the rising sun. Datemaki, is a sweet omelet smeared with fish paste and rolled into logs. Kazunoko symbolize having many children as each roe sack contains about 20,000 eggs. Boiled prawns – with shell, head and antennae on – symbolize long life, because they have the stooped back and whiskers of an old man.
The convenience store chain 7-11, a subsidiary of 7 & I Holdings, has collaborated with an artist to create a series of several visually attractive sets. The “7-premium three stacking boxes” and “three stacking boxes” sets include – in addition to high-priced abalone and prawns – kombumaki.
“Kombumaki” is “kombu” (kelp) rolled tightly and bound with a strip of gourd, and stuffed with salmon or herring. They are cooked slowly in dashi, mirin, sugar and soy sauce. Kombu can also be pronounced as kobu to make a play on the word “yorokobu,” which means happiness.
The “Western-style two stacking boxes” set is heavy on meat, with only a few seafood items, such as prawns and gomame, small sardines with the heads on that have been dried and then finished in a sweet sauce of sugar, mirin, soy sauce and sake. The word “gomame” can mean “50,000 ears of rice,” symbolizing a bountiful harvest.
A Japanese-style “Kagaya-restaurant designed two box set,” and a “luxury one box set” round out the offerings.
Lawson, based in Shinagawa, Tokyo, offers a three box set including salmon, octopus, prawns and “gomame.” The set sells for 10,000 yen and the quantity would make a meal for two or three people. A cheaper option at Lawson is to buy individual items, offered in small quantities for 100 yen (USD 0.86, EUR 0.81). These include “gomame,” “kazunoko,” salmon roe, and “kombumaki.”
