Arrivals of sardines at Tokyo’s Tsukiji wholesale market in the third week of January were up 30 percent from the same time last year, leading average prices down four percent, to JPY 300 (USD 264, EUR 247) per kilogram, according to a 28 January article in the Nikkei Shimbun.
The U.S. National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration reported on 17 January prices on fresh product in the range of JPY 216 to 486 (USD 1.92 to 4.32, EUR 1.78 to 4.00) on volume of 30,527 kilograms.
In January, cod and oysters are in demand for hotpot dishes, and the demand for sardines is low, but in February, for the setsubun event, it is customary to eat grilled sardines, so demand increases. Setsubun is just before the winter solstice, and perhaps akin to All Saints Day, it is considered a time when the spirits are especially active. Accordingly, many religious rites are conducted to drive out devils and welcome good luck.
Sardines are mainly caught in western Japan. The retail price of one fish is typically JPY 80 to 100 (USD 0.70 to 0.88, EUR 0.65 to 0.82).
In some parts of the Kansai district, impaling the sardine head on a twig of holly and displaying it by the front door, such as by sticking it into the flagpole holder, is considered good luck. Devils are said to fear having their eyes poked by the sharp leaves of holly, in addition to disliking the smell of the fish head.
The Kansai district includes Osaka, Kobe, Nara and Kyoto, but the custom is less popular in Kyoto and more so in the other areas. It is not generally practiced in other areas of Japan, though sardines are eaten throughout Japan on the day.
Apartment and condominium dwellers, and younger Japanese in general, are less likely to carry on this tradition, and it is gradually declining, while on the other hand, the eating of an uncut rolled sushi in silence while facing the year’s lucky compass direction, is increasing.
