LOBSTER ROE NOODLES @ ISLAND CREEK OYSTER BAR
When the partner of Island Creek Oyster Bar’s chef Jeremy Sewell asked if he could do a “surf and turf dish,” Sewell was horrified, thinking the concept was better suited for chain restaurants.
However, not long after the suggestion was made, Island Creek’s pasta-infused version of surf and turf began taking shape, and is now one of the only regular dishes on the restaurant’s menu.
According to Sewell, the dish’s success is the result of an evolution of ideas emerging from a cooperative vision. Sewell, who grew up in a fishing family in southern Maine, insisted that lobster play a prominent role.
“We only purchase whole live lobster, and I like to use every part, shells, head and all,” Sewell said. “As I was cleaning a lobster one day, I looked at the roe, and the recipe just struck me.”
Darting to the pans, the excited chef pureed the roe with some egg, and turned it into a delicate pasta that was a “deep, interesting shade of green.” When cooked, it took on the brilliant red of the lobster shell, and from there, a striking play of seafood and meat took shape.
Succulent braised short ribs mingle in the noodles with roasted mushrooms and fresh picked English peas (or Brussels sprouts, depending on the season), all glistening with a rich butter sauce. Finally, the crowning glory is added – a grilled lobster tail from a crustacean caught by Sewell’s own cousin within 24 hours of being served.
“It’s decadent and beautiful all at once, and a delightful play on texture and flavors,” Sewell said. He recommends pairing it with a Sancerre or a pinot noir.
Sewell’s commitment to local seafood goes far beyond lobster – most of the fish served at Island Creek is caught locally by family and friends, or sourced from their oyster farm in Duxbury, Massachusetts. In fact, it was the mission of uniting the farm – his “family” of fishers and local growers – which sparked the original idea for the Island Creek Oyster Bar. The restaurant’s daily-changing menu proudly displays the origin and the family member – cousin, uncle, aunt, sister – who harvested the catch. The result is the feeling of having been personally invited for a cozy meal hosted by Sewell and his extended family.
