Seafood symbiosis

 The Marine Stewardship Council eco-label, even with its concise new logo design, doesn't resonate all that much with North American consumers — at least not yet. But the same can't be said for the bigger European market, which is reason enough why the Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute should become the new client for Alaska salmon, which the MSC first certified sustainable in 2000.

The ASMI board of directors last week voted to provisionally become the client for Alaska salmon, picking up for the Alaska Department of Fish & Game (ADF&G), which sponsored the initial certification and last year announced it could no longer continue in that capacity (it was the only government sponsor of the five MSC-certified Alaska fisheries). That sparked some buzz that Alaska salmon — and perhaps all Alaska seafood — didn't need the MSC, that the state's lauded fishery management reputation was all the proof needed for sustainability-minded seafood buyers.

The MSC may need Alaska salmon more than Alaska salmon needs the MSC, which proudly trumpets the fact that nearly 7 million metric tons of seafood are now MSC-certified (much of that tonnage from Alaska fisheries). But as more buyers follow the footsteps of Wal-Mart, which has pledged to carry only MSC-certified wild seafood by 2011, hanging onto the eco-label looks smarter all the time.

"We agree that Alaska's fisheries are sustainably managed and don't require a third-party evaluation in order to be perceived as sustainable," Laura Fleming, ASMI communications director, told me on Monday. "The companies that are selling Alaska product, particularly into Europe, believe that MSC certification is desired by their customers. We're doing this as a convenience for the industry."

A final decision should come on Dec. 3, when ASMI holds its next "all hands" meeting. By that time, explained Fleming, the various stakeholders will have had ample opportunity to examine all the issues on the table regarding fishery-client responsibilities. And they're considerable: Clients must conduct annual audits and don't forget that Alaska salmon will be up for re-assessment in 2012. Then there are the costs to divvy up among ASMI members.

If ASMI opts to not take on this new role, then Alaska salmon would no longer be able to use the eco-label, as early as next year. The MSC doesn't want that, European retailers don't want that and I'm sure that Alaska seafood marketers don't either.

Alaska seafood is established and respected in Europe, and its products appeal to that market for a number of reasons, not the least of which is the sustainable certification. There are more than 500 Alaska salmon products bearing the blue logo, available in about 20 countries.

Would the door to the European market be closed to Alaska salmon if the eco-label were gone? Perhaps not entirely, but since it's already wide open, why take the chance?

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