The biannual International Food & Drink Event (IFE) took place in London last week, but with surprisingly few seafood companies in attendance. But those who took the opportunity to exhibit at the four-day event reported brisk business, including Billingsgate fish market, a London institution that traces its history back to 1327.
Billingsgate became an exclusive fish market in the 16th century, and in 1699 an Act of Parliament made it “a free and open market for all sorts of fish.” This means that the public has a right to buy. Saturday is the prime public day, when merchants offload the remainder of the week’s catch to start fresh on the following Tuesday morning.
Billed as the UK’s largest inland fish market, Billingsgate sells an average of 25,000 tons of seafood a year and has an annual turnover of GBP 200 million. Around 40 percent of this tonnage is imported seafood, and a similar percentage is farmed salmon, much of it Scottish.
According to Chris Leftwich, chief inspector of the Fishmongers’ Co., the market has changed dramatically over the past decade, as the area’s demographics have changed.
“This market used to be a major supplier of fresh fish to UK retailers, but this role has now been taken over by specialty supply companies elsewhere,” he said. “There is now a much greater emphasis on imported exotic species to supply the local Afro-Caribbean and Asian populations and their businesses.”
Live holding facilities ensure that the market retains its reputation for supplying lobster and crab, but a boiling house, which for years allowed merchants to offer cooked shellfish products, has been closed. “The cost of updating to comply with food-safety regulations was considered too high,” explained Leftwich.
The market is also known for its eels, which slither around in a stacking tray system, brought in fresh from Holland or Ireland. “These are still really popular in London, especially as ‘jellied eel,’” said Mick Jenrick, who runs Micks Eel Supply.
Billingsgate offer everything from cod and hake to tuna, parrot fish and grouper. Also on sale are bivalves, crustaceans, processed and value-added seafood products, cured and smoked fish and roe and fish soups.
Buyers include fishmongers, fish-and-chip shop owners, delicatessens, publicans, hoteliers, restaurateurs and specialty fish suppliers. Some of London’s top chefs are regular visitors, enjoying the busy atmosphere and the banter of the merchants.
Visitors are welcome to wander around, and guided tours can be arranged. A Seafood School also runs from the market and offers “Catch of the Day” classes among a wide range of courses. If you have a few early morning hours to spare in London, a trip to Billingsgate comes highly recommended.
