Q&A: Tory McPhail, Commander’s Palace

Growing up in a small northwest Washington town, Tory McPhail’s family life revolved around the kitchen. He developed a deep appreciation for fresh food at an early age, working in his family’s raspberry fields and hunting and fishing. By age 5, he knew he wanted to become a chef and enrolled in culinary school at 16. Two weeks ago, McPhail — now the executive chef at New Orleans’ renowned Commander’s Palace — was crowned 2009’s King of Louisiana Seafood for his Louisiana Seafood Mixed Grill recipe. On 18 and 19 July, he will compete in the sixth annual Great American Seafood Cook-Off at the Ernest N. Morial Convention Center in New Orleans.

How did you develop the winning recipe?
Everybody knows what’s going on with the economy, gloom and doom. And it’s also coming up on summer grilling season, so we designed a recipe that is very approachable.

Good food does not have to be expensive. We used black drum — which I don’t think gets enough credit — all wild-caught 30 miles outside of the city. We also used wild-caught Louisiana white shrimp and jumbo lump crab.

What do you like best about cooking with seafood?
It’s great flavor for a pretty inexpensive price. It doesn’t have to be black truffles and fois gras all the time. You can go down to the dock and get fresh shrimp right off the boat. The great thing about it is you’re spending your money right here in New Orleans or southern Louisiana. With beef, pork and duck all your money is going out of state. In light of the recent storms, people need to buy local, shop local and put local stuff on the menu. If we don’t take care of the fishermen, the crabbers and the shrimpers know that stuff is going to be lost to the next generation. It’s our duty to tell people New Orleans is back.

What seafood items does Commander’s menu?

We’re geared to be about 65 percent seafood. Wild shrimp is one of our favorites, we have tons and tons of oysters and seven varieties of fresh fish from local fishermen, depending on what’s available.

What was it like to win the competition?
They gave me this crown, and it’s kind of embarrassing to be honest with you. I’d much rather be the guy that cooks really, really good. I don’t need to be center of attention.

What are you doing to prepare for the Great American Seafood Cook-Off?
I’m just starting to look up rules. There are different judges and different rules. I’m going to be very thorough and just take more great fresh seafood and cook it like we do every day here at Commander’s. [I want to] show people how great fresh seafood can be here in Louisiana.

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