Raw bar rally

Perhaps no seafood exhibits its provenance more than oysters — the flavor and texture of the briny, slimy morsels of meat speak volumes about their origin, since oysters filter up to 50 gallons of seawater a day and take on the characteristics of the body of water in which they were grown.

Unfortunately, it’s that brininess and sliminess that can prevent seafood fans from becoming oyster lovers. As Rowan Jacobsen says in his 2007 book A Geography of Oysters: The Connoisseur’s Guide to Oyster Eating in North America, “Everybody has a first oyster, and it involves gathering courage, overruling one’s instincts, and taking a point-of-no-return leap, like jumping into cold water. You psych yourself up, take the plunge, and afterward you pull yourself out and dry your prickly skin and feel sharp and clean and satisfied.”

But it’s worth the dive. Though oysters can be intimidating, the product’s uniqueness and individuality are exactly what U.S. restaurateurs and retailers require to initiate a dialog about seafood with their customers.

Converting seafood fans to oyster lovers was among the topics discussed at Tuesday’s seminar “Eating Oysters, Tasting Place,” part of the three-day Chefs Collaborative National Summit in Boston.

A raw oyster program is an ideal way to get your customers talking about seafood and pride of place. And if you’re new to the world of raw oysters, here’s a little advice: Get to know your purveyor, and think small.

“At the bare minimum, really know your purveyor, and buy only from a reputable one,” said Skip Bennett, founder and owner of Island Creek Oysters in Duxbury, Mass., and one of three panelists at yesterday’s seminar. “Try to find out as much information as you can about where your oysters come from.”

“If you’re trying to get people to have a good first experience with oysters, don’t give them a big ol’ honkin’ oyster,” quipped Jacobsen, who moderated the seminar.

“When we first started growing oysters, we grew the biggest oysters we could, because that’s what we were seeing in the marketplace,” added Bennett. “But, in the last 10 years, the ideal oyster is 2 1/2 to 3 inches with a deep cup.”

Consumer lack of knowledge is perhaps the No. 1 challenge facing U.S. restaurateurs and retailers. So try introducing a raw oyster program. It may be the key to expanding your seafood sales.

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