Q&A with Chef Rick Moonen, rm seafood

For years, Chef Rick Moonen has been a leading advocate for protecting the world’s oceans and utilizing sustainable seafood, including working with Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch program and supporting Gulf Wild, a traceability and branding program for wild fish from the Gulf of Mexico. Recently, though, Moonen surprised many when he became a spokesperson for farmed salmon producer True North Salmon.

During a recent interview with SeafoodSource, Moonen explained his support for the product and revealed other ways he plans to promote sustainable seafood.You are always involved in promoting sustainable seafood projects.

What is your latest venture?

Moonen: For [National] Seafood Month, Chris Ivens-Brown, the vice president of culinary development at Compass Group, has had me visit corporations to promote sustainability. Earlier this week, we visited VISA headquarters to cook a sustainable lunch and to raise awareness about sustainability. Ivens-Brown enlists bigger-name chefs that he can have show up, and people ask for autographs and take pictures. To see that big excitement at a 5,000-employee facility is awesome.

In the beginning, you were one of the few chefs pushing for the use of sustainable seafood. How has that changed?

Moonen: I’m excited about the way sustainability is being embraced by more chefs and organizations such as Chefs Collaborative. To see an organization with a recognizable name adopt more sustainability into their day-to-day efforts is amazing. I’m going to keep on pushing good seafood, such as True North Salmon. Hopefully, people will understand that this brand takes care of their concerns about environment and the product itself is a good product at a good price.

We were surprised when you got involved with True North Salmon, since we had primarily seen you support wild, sustainable seafood. Explain why you wanted to be a spokesperson for this brand.

Moonen: I had farmed salmon off my menu for 12 years, because all of the stumbling blocks. Farming fish is relatively brand new and some companies did not have it figured out. They did not all have the same integrity. I was against these companies for quite awhile, but within the last year…it was an important move for me. Salmon is one of the top-selling finfish in the world and someone involved in selling seafood (as I am) wants to cash in on that. The fish I grew up eating on the East Coast was swordfish, salmon and fish sticks. The Gulf of Maine has perfect farming conditions, with its cold water, deep water and water exchange difference in and out. In True North, I saw a company that is fixing it and doing it better. It was introduced to me and I tried it. The quality was right on, but I asked what is in the feed, and several other questions. I was very impressed. The fish are low density and not as stressed out. Their food source contains no GMOs, hormones or antibiotics. So many chefs say, “I will only serve wild fish,” and I said that early in my career. As I watched what was going on, I had to re-think that. There has got to be a balance here.

Besides Rick Moonen’s rm seafood, do you have plans to open other seafood restaurants?

Moonen: There is nothing on the books at the moment.

What about television appearances or getting your own TV shows?

Moonen: I am not allowed to say.

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