Sushi has successfully jumped from trend to mainstream in the United States, aided by a movement towards Americanization of classic forms of what is known as culinary art in Japan.
But now a new trend in the sushi world, omakase, is reclaiming some of sushi’s authentic roots and aiming to deliver a premium experience to U.S. diners – at a premium price, much to the delight of restauranteurs and their suppliers.
A group of executives involved in all levels of the sushi trade in the United States, from supply to retail to foodservice, discussed the state of the sushi market in the United States at a breakout panel on Wednesday, 22 January at the Global Seafood Market Conference in Orlando, Florida, U.S.A.
Omakase, a Japanese phrase literally meaning “I’ll leave it up to you,” is an exciting new culinary trend, said Robert Bleu, the president of True World Group, a leading supplier of seafood to sushi restaurants in the U.S.
“Omakase is leading a trend toward higher-quality sushi in America,” he said, calling it “advanced food theater” that is perfect for a distinctive night out.
Kyle McNicholas, the general manager at Culinary Collaborations, a group working to “transform the sushi industry to ‘clean and green’ all-natural programs,” according to its LinkedIn page, said big-spending diners such as businessmen dining on expense accounts are increasingly seeking out omakase restaurants.
“It’s no longer steakhouses,” he said. “They want to be more healthy, and sushi has that depiction, but they also want a special experience.”
Jason Yang, a buyer and international business development manager for SnowFox, one of the largest operators and franchise owners of sushi kiosks in the United States, said omakase represents a tertiary trend wave for sushi in the United States.
As Yang explained, the first wave witnessed the rise of the sushi bar that was trendy and exclusive – the hot new thing on the dining scene in big cities like New York, Los Angeles, and Miami. The second wave resulted in the adaptation of sushi into the American mainstream, with fusion, hybrid, “American-ized” sushi that could entail a dip in a deep-fryer or a dollop of cream cheese. This wave coincided with the spread of sushi across the country, and it’s emergence as a more affordable dining option. The third wave, starting around 2010, saw the return to popularity of authentic, premium sushi experiences, led by omakase.
However, while the overall sushi market in the United States is growing, according to Bleu, omakase sushi chefs now have a fight on their hands to source the highest-quality seafood such as bluefin tuna, hamachi (yellowtail), or uni (sea urchin).
“The very best fish now goes to Singapore, Hong Kong, and Shanghai – they’re now paying higher prices than Tokyo,” he said. “On that really high end of fish quality, the U.S. is probably number three or four on the global pecking order ... We will not pay the prices those other places are paying.”
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