Also known as pike mackerel, or “sanma” in Japanese, Pacific saury is an autumn staple. The stock comes into Japanese waters from the north in late August and early September as water temperatures cool and by December works its way down to Chiba Prefecture, just north of Tokyo.

In a survey of which foods come to mind as “tastes of autumn” by Tokyo-based restaurant search website GourNavi, Pacific saury came out on top. The site polled 1,024 Japanese men and women over 20 years old, and mu…