Editor’s note: The following is a letter to the editor submitted by Joseph Sabbagh, president of Sax Maritime Associates in Los Angeles, in response to the 29 September commentary “Don’t read this column.”
The time is now to put a red avoid tag on all of the seafood sustainability spin coming from Whole Foods Market and the Monterey Bay Aquarium (MBA). Studies throughout the world indicate that the consumer is very confused by conflicting “sustainable” claims and just plain double speak coming from environmental NGOs. It is disappointing that Whole Foods has decided to play Three-Card Monte. I would expect it from the MBA, as I have had them on my own “spin watch” list for some time.
The color-coding system is nothing new, though you would think that Whole Foods created it by its statements. While I was retained by Wild Oats in 2006, a group presented the concept to the seafood division. It took us about one minute of discussing and chuckling to unanimously reject the concept. It was obvious to all of us that the idea is not good for sustainability, the seafood industry or consumers.
Here's Whole Foods’ explanation, which it posted on its website: “A few people have asked, 'If it’s red-rated, why not stop selling it right now?’ Actually, we already stopped selling especially vulnerable red-rated species such as non-MSC certified Chilean sea bass, orange roughy, bluefin tuna, sharks, and marlins (with the exception of Hawaii-caught blue marlin, sold only in Hawaii stores). Under this new program, all swordfish and tuna from red-rated fisheries will be eliminated from seafood counters by Earth Day 2011. And by Earth Day 2012, all other seafood from red-rated fisheries will be discontinued with the exception of Atlantic cod and sole, which will be sold through Earth Day 2013. In the meantime, we’re evaluating the red-rated fisheries to see if changes can be made to improve fishing practices. Some fishermen have worked with us for many years, so it’s a partnership and a process that takes a little time to change.”
I failed double talk in college, so I may be missing something here. Why not stop selling it now the way Whole Foods did with shark, roughy and other species? If a stock is collapsing, how will better fishing practices help? How will waiting three years help the Atlantic cod and sole fisheries? Will Whole Foods start buying the species it stopped buying before and put a red avoid tag on it?
The honest answer is Whole Foods is very good at marketing and promoting just what its customers want to hear, regardless of the real value of the program. In an interview I did with SeaFood Business in June 2007, I praised Whole Foods for its commitment to labor and “raising the bar” for retail seafood, and I stand by those words. I also said the retailer will get carried away with their sustainability and environmental claims, and this is yet another example. Many of their stores have massive open-ice cases — some 40 to 80 feet. If and when this program comes to fulfillment, Whole Foods will have a lot of empty case space that must be iced, cooled or replaced, as the species selection will be reduced.
Whole Foods has an interesting partnership with MBA, as it can pick and choose the positions that work for them, as long as their checks clear. Case in point: MBA lists farmed salmon as avoid and has advised Target to stop selling it, yet Whole Foods continues to sell their own approved farmed salmon. You would think if the fish farms Whole Foods buys from are sustainable enough for their standards that the MBA would revise or note these farms as preferred or at least pass the name along to Target. Or perhaps these farms do not meet MBA standards but only Whole Foods’ standards.
Whole Foods should be more responsible when making statements and policies pertaining to a valuable natural resource. As a leader in retail seafood, Whole Foods does not have to stoop to spinning seafood sustainability. The only honorable thing to do at this point is to stop selling the red-rated species or scrap the promotion all together.
Whole Foods and the MBA are in a position to assist all stakeholders, but this seafood sustainability spin game is no way to accomplish that. I know they can do better, and I hope they do so now.
Joseph Sabbagh
Sax Maritime Associates
